Tabelogged: 昇陽
Uwajima Ferry
Taking ferries in Japan is an entertaining diversion, especially as an American who didn't grow up around islands. We really enjoyed this three hour excursion as we traveled from one onsen town in Shikoku (Matsuyama) to another one in Kyushu (Beppu).
Also fun was the random Suzume film propwork created to promote the port's appearance as the main character traveled to Ehime.
Tabelogged: キノピオ・カフェ
Tabelogged: がブリチキン。 難波4丁目店
Tabelogged: WINE×鉄板料理 ば~る
Tabelogged: 道後舘
Tabelogged: 魚武
The onsen hotel we're staying at is equipped with four of these bad boys and as long as I've got this chair in my life I'm not sure I'll have need for human touch ever again panasonic.jp/massage/p-db/EP-MA88M.html
Dogo onsen
Famed as the oldest onsen (hot springs) bath in Japan, it's relatively tiny and cramped by today's standards, but it was cool to check it off the bucket list. The little onsen town that's grown up around this main building were definitely worth a visit, especially if you're a fan of Studio Ghibli's "Spirited Away", as this onsen was apparently among their artistic inspirations.
If you go, I'd recommend staying where we did, at Dogokan (道後館) hotel.
Tabelogged: 亀の井ホテル 伊豆高原
Kamenoi - Izukougen
After visiting this onsen hotel in Izu last year, I decided to bring Becky this time and we had an absolutely wonderful time. Beautiful property, well-maintained. The staff really go above and beyond, too.
Gaburi Chicken (Namba)
I love the Gaburi chicken chain. I first stumbled on it in Tokyo, of all places, even though I'm pretty sure it's based in Nagoya. Order the chickent thigh ("momo") kara age until you're full. The 2 hour all-you-can-drink deal is pretty cheap, too
See my Tabelog check-in here.
Some of my favorite Japan-only apps
This is a copy of the Searls of Wisdom newsletter delivered to subscribers on May 1, 2024.
We kicked April off right around here with a stay at the new Evermore resort's Conrad hotel, which saw fit to include yet another upscale tiki bar in a part of town that contains an order of magnitude more tiki bars than thai restaurants. And five times more tiki bars than pharmacies. Roughly as many tiki bars as schools, judging by a quick search. Anyway, here's me drinking an Oaxaca Colada out of a ceramic conch shell:

Not too much to report this month that I didn't already cover on my web site, as I was mostly heads-down writing software.
Oh, by the way, to all the folks who kindly wrote in to express sympathy about the back pain that I documented here last month: thank you. It was entirely uncalled for (as in, I did not call for it), but I appreciate the sentiment. For what it's worth, I got in to see my physical therapist and she patiently listened to me ramble about the dozen theories I'd been crafting before simply asking, "are you doing the hamstring stretches I showed you two years ago?" At which point, I melted into a pile of humiliated goo and slid away, escaping under the door.
Anyway, stretching my hamstrings every day is helping a lot. God, I hate doing them, though.
April was also defined by the various preparations needed for what's shaping up to be another epic Japan trip. (Incidentally, this is also what consumed a good chunk of last April.) After going to RubyKaigi as a foreign correspondent for Test Double, I've decided to return in a slightly more low-key fashion. Oh, and this time Becky's joining me!
After the conference, I'm hoping to spend a couple weeks wandering heretofore unexplored (by me) regions of the country on a solo language-learning and research expedition. To assist in documenting all the places I'll go, I added a mapping feature to my site that I call Spots.
As I check items off my packing list, I re-installed and logged into several of the apps I use whenever I'm in Japan. Switching my phone to my Japanese Apple ID for this purpose has become something of an annual ritual of mild frustration that nevertheless leaves me ponderous. Why does everyday life in Japan require a full home screen of only-available-in-the-Japanese-App-Store apps? And if we were to compare them to their counterparts in the West, what might they teach us?
When I first signed up for a study abroad program nearly 20 years ago, it was in large part because Japan seemed like such a radical departure from my upbringing in the states. When I took an elective on post-war Japanese industrial design, I was repeatedly awestruck by the number of tools and appliances that solved common problems in ways I hadn't seen before. That so many things are designed and produced independently in Japan made me realize how many facets of life I'd assumed to be constant were in fact variable. Knobs that twisted left when they "should" have twisted right. The tea kettle whose fully-concealed cord resulted in my not realizing it was electric and subsequently melting it over my gas range. The countless bathtub drains whose basic operation escaped me, leading to my checking out from more than one hotel with a tub full of water. But one thing I hadn't bargained for was the degree to which this profound differentness would also apply to Japanese software design.
Japan produces a lot of software intended primarily (if not exclusively) for domestic consumption. For almost every major function of our lives that's mediated by a popular app, it's likely some other app you've never heard of dominates the same market in Japan. The fact these apps often emerged in relative isolation provides a sort of natural experiment, offering us the opportunity to question features we thought were essential and appreciate alternate approaches we might not have arrived at ourselves.
In case it might whet your appetite for exploring these differences, today I'm going to give a quick run-down of a few of my favorite Japanese apps below.
やきとり番番
I was pretty impressed to find a decent yakitori place so close to Kabukicho's main drag that wasn't overrrun by tourists. The guy seated next to me had been coming to the same bar for 40 years.
Tabelog page (my review)
Apple MacBook Air 13-Inch M3 Review
I've been using the new MacBook Air since it launched last month and I'd been thinking about writing a full review of what it's like to live with it, but I'm lazy so I'll just piggy-back on Paul Thurrott's glowing review of the 15" model with the following modifications that only apply to the 13" version.
Additional review notes:
- Its screen is 2" less than 15"
- Its speakers are somewhat worse than the 15"
- Contrary to Paul's review, the microphone array held up surprisingly well in my testing—especially with Voice Isolation activated—and were far superior to the mics on the AirPods Pro 2
- At 2.7 pounds, the 13" M3 MacBook Air is 35% heavier than the discontinued 12" MacBook, a model that was originally released in 2015
Despite 9 years of technological advancement, Apple has regressed significantly on the only metric I care about in a portable computer: weight. Considering that the ARM transition was meant to provide significantly more thermal headroom and enable the design of new form factors, the fact that Apple was able to ship a 2-pound MacBook with a retina screen and Intel chip in 2015 but has thus far failed to ship an M-series Mac that weighs less than 2.7 pounds is simply bewildering.
Everything else about the computer is great.
Searls Score: 2.7 / 10
Battle Station
A number of readers have asked about my Vision Pro setup since writing about how I've forsaken my desk for an Eames chair.
Well, here it is. I ran the MagSafe charging cable for my MacBook Air along the left armrest and routed the USB-C cable that charges my Vision Pro battery up the back (which itself is affixed via a 3D-printed enclosure and velcro command strips).
At nearly three months in, I'm loving this setup. Went ahead and cancelled a longstanding to-do to find a more comfortable office chair than my Steelcase Leap, because I can't really see myself needing one anytime soon.
The Boathouse
Despite being known for their seafood, Boathouse's burger is exceptional considering how large their menu is and how many covers they turn a night. Most dedicated craft burger joints aren't half this good.
When the bartenders remember it, I like to order the long-since-removed cocktail S.S. Politician, which is a simple (and extremely whiskey-forward) manhattan made with:
- Jack Daniels Single Barrel
- Montenegro
- Cherry bitters
- Luxardo cherry
… and served to the brim of a martini glass that's tall enough to ride most roller coasters.
Yes, it isn't
A recent trend in GPT-4 over the past few months is that it's started catching hallucinations (or, more charitably, over-eager user affirmation) mid-sentence. At this point, about 20% of the yes/no questions I ask it result in a sudden about-face. As jarring as it is to read, only once has it explicitly acknowledged its own contradiction—which, I'll admit, was impressive.
Because ChatGPT spews fluent bullshit, it has no relationship with the truth and so no apology or reflection typically follows. However, unlike most bullshitters, if you ask for an apology it'll gladly oblige. Silver lining.